Anise
The Herb Companion Staff
o Pimpinella anisum (pim-pin-NEL-uh AN-iss-um)
o Family Umbelliferae
o Annual
Anise
is one of the world´s oldest and best-loved spices, flavoring the food,
drink, and medicines of many cultures since ancient times. Anise, which
is in the same family as parsley, cilantro, fennel, sweet cicely, dill,
lovage, and angelica, is not commonly grown in U.S. herb gardens.
Things have changed since the early European settlers of Virginia were
required by law to plant a few seeds of anise in their gardens.
The
plant is native to Egypt and the Mediterranean region. It is now
cultivated commercially in many parts of Europe, India, Mexico, southern
Russia, and Turkey, as well as the United States. Where conditions are
favorable, it has escaped from cultivation.
The smooth, grooved stems
of anise grow 1 to 2 feet tall. As with those of cilantro, the leaves
are of two types: the lower ones are larger and pinnately divided into
oval, coarsely toothed leaflets while the upper ones are small and
ferny. (The generic name Pimpinella is derived from bipinella,
"twice-pinnate", referring to the division of the leaves.) Tiny white or
yellow flowers are borne in 2-inch-wide lacy umbels in midsummer, and
the 1/8-inch-long seeds (technically fruits) are grooved, gray, and
roundly ovate with one side flattened. They hang from the thin stems in
pairs.
Anise´s medicinal powers have been appreciated for centuries.
Some early claims were extravagant. It was said to ward off the evil eye
and prevent scorpion bites, epilepsy, and bad dreams. Sixteenth-century
herbalist John Gerard summarized the principal medicinal uses of anise:
"The
seed wasteth and consumeth winde, and is good against belchings and
upbraidings of the stomacke, allayeth gripings of the belly, provoketh
urine gently, maketh aboundance of milke, and stirreth up bodily lust:
it stayeth the laske, [diarrhea] and also the white flux in women. . . .
It taketh away the Squinancie or Quincie (that is, a swelling in the
throat) being gargled with honey, vinegar, and a little Hyssop gently
boiled together.
He noted that it also sweetens the breath and "helpeth the yeoxing or hicket [hiccups], both when it is drunken or eaten dry."
Its
effectiveness in relieving gastric distress has been confirmed by
modern science, and for this purpose it is best to make a strong tea
from the seeds. The seed oil (whose main constituent, anethole,
contributes anise´s flavor) is antimicrobial and a mild expectorant, but
its use in small quantities in cough medicines and the like is mainly
for its taste.
Anise leaves were once applied to the skin as a
freckle remover, and a face pack made from the ground seeds was said at
least to fade them. Seeds have been used in a wash to get rid of lice.
The
seed oil has been used to poison pigeons and the seeds used to bait
mousetraps. The oil has been used to scent the sack followed by
foxhounds in drag hunting and the artificial hare used in greyhound
racing. It has also been used to track honeybees to their hive.
The
cuisines of many cultures, from northern Europe, Morocco, and the Near
East to North and South America, have made anise their own. The fresh
leaves are delicious in salads or cooked in stews and sauces. They may
be dried for tea. The seeds, also flavorful in tea, enhance baked goods,
eggs, cheese, and stewed fruit; they are especially good with figs and
chestnuts. The Romans made a spiced cake containing aniseed which served
both as dessert and a digestive aid. A mug of hot milk in which the
seeds have been steeped is tasty and is said to promote sleep. Cinnamon,
bay, and aniseed are a winning combination for flavoring meat dishes.
The oil flavors candy, gum, ice cream, and pickles. Liqueurs containing
anise include anisette, Pernod, Sambuco, pastis, ojen, tres castillos,
raki, aguardiente, and ouzo.
As in H.M.S. Pinafore, "things are
seldom what they seem." Today, anise oil, not licorice, flavors most
commercial licorice candy in the United States. However, because it
takes 50 pounds of aniseed to produce 1 pound of oil, the anise oil of
commerce may not have been obtained from aniseed at all. It´s more
likely to have come from the much larger fruits of the star anise
(Illicium anisatum), a small Asian evergreen tree of the magnolia
family. The essential oil of star anise is virtually identical to that
of anise.
Growing It
Length of the growing season is usually the
limiting factor in growing anise: though the plants will grow in Zones 3
to 10, they need 120 frost-free days to produce ripe seed.
Anise
will grow in poor, dry soil, but a light application of well-rotted
manure is appreciated. Optimum soil pH is 6.0. Use fresh seed. You can
get a head start on the season by starting seeds indoors eight to ten
weeks before the last frost, but seedlings may not transplant well
because of their long taproots. Use peat pots or otherwise minimize
transplanting shock.
To sow seeds directly into the garden, choose a
spot in full sun and out of the wind. Plant a few seeds in a group, or
greater numbers thinly in rows 21/2 to 3 feet apart; cover with 1/4 to
1/2 inch of soil. The seed may take as long as 28 days to germinate.
Though seeds germinate best in cool ground, the seedlings need plenty of
sun and warmth to grow to maturity.
Gardeners disagree on how far
apart the plants should stand, advising distances from 4 inches to 11/2
feet. The plants tend to be spindly, and those who advocate close
spacing believe that the weak stems will support each other. If you´re
growing just a few plants in a bed of other herbs, you might allow each
one about 1 square foot of space. Mounding soil around the base of the
stems offers some support, and staking the plants is a surer way of
keeping them from flopping. Keep the soil well watered and weed-free.
A
longer growing season doesn´t necessarily ensure success with anise. In
the deep South, the combination of heat and humidity take their toll.
Texas herb growers Madalene Hill and Gwen Barclay suggest sowing the
seeds in fall in light, fairly rich, well-drained soil; plants live
through winter and flower when warm weather arrives in spring.
If
growing anise is difficult where you live, you might consider planting
anise hyssop (Agastache foeniculum), a problem-free member of the mint
family whose anise-scented leaves and flowers can be used fresh or dried
in teas and fresh in salads and cookies.
It is possible to sow a few
seeds of anise in a pot in late summer to grow indoors during the
winter, but you´ll need a deep pot to accommodate the long taproots and
some way of supporting the sprawling stems. Snippets of the fresh herb
can add some life to a winter salad.
Harvest the seed heads when the
seeds are gray-green and the stems are yellow. Leave some of the stalk
attached so that you can hang them to dry. First, however, rinse the
seed heads in hot water to rid them of insects, drain them on a towel,
and let them dry. Hang bunches of stalks in a dark, well-ventilated area
indoors either over clean paper or in a paper bag to catch any seeds
that may fall off. When the seed heads are crisp, in four or five days,
rub them between your hands to separate the seeds from the stems. You
may wish to put the seeds through a sieve or pour them from one
container to another to clean them further. Store the cleaned seeds in
an airtight container away from heat.
Anise plants sprawl too much to
be considered ornamental. Two attractive and very ornamental European
relatives, both perennial species of Pimpinella, are greater burnet
saxifrage (P. major), with white or pink flowers, which grows well in
moist soil and semishade, and burnet saxifrage (P. saxifraga), which has
white flowers and grows best in dry alkaline soil. Burnet saxifrage
also has been used medicinally.
Sources
Seeds of anise are readily available at garden centers and by mail order.
o Far North Gardens, PO?Box 126, New Hudson, MI 48165. Catalog $2. Seeds of Pimpinella major, P. saxifraga.
o Richters, Goodwood, ON L0C 1A0, Canada. Catalog $2.50. Seeds of P. anisum, P. saxifraga.
o WE-DU Nurseries, Rt. 5, Box 724, Marion, NC 28752. Catalog $2. Plants of P. saxifraga.
o Well-Sweep Herb Farm, 317 Mt. Bethel Rd., Port Murray, NJ 07865. Catalog $2. Seeds and plants of P. anisum.
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