Working With and Blending Thick Aromatic Oils
~ aromaweb.com ~
Most
essential oils are thin in viscosity, meaning they are almost of a
water-like consistency. Some steam distilled essential oils, namely
patchouli and sandalwood, are thicker but still are relatively easy to
work with. Some CO2s, absolutes, balsams, resins and other botanical
aromatics, however, can be nearly solid at room temperature and are much
harder to work with, measure and blend.
Heating oils until they are
at a workable consistency helps, but it's important to heat oils gently
and for as brief a period as possible. Heat can potentially destroy the
fragile constituents of particular oils.
I recently received a
question from an AromaWeb/AromaTalk visitor who would like to know the
best method to handle thick oils. Beyond my basic recommendation to
gently heat thick oils in warm water, I have wanted to take out some
time to develop an article where I describe and explore the options for
working with thick oils.
When first working with a new oil, I begin
by using a water bath technique: I gently heat the bottle or jar of oil
by placing it in a small bowl of warm water, and then allow the bottle
to rest in the warm water for 10 minutes or more. If the water cools, I
replace the water. It is often a trial-and-error process, and each oil
can differ in the precise temperature of warm water that works and the
length of time that's needed for the oil to reach a workable
consistency. I also use this method for liquefying balsams and resins
like benzoin. I have also used it to loosen hard vegetable butters from
their containers for easier removal. Of course, you risk damaging the
legibility of labels. If that matters to you, you can try applying a
waterproof, clear tape to the label before submerging the container into
water.
Sidenote: This water bath technique is also a useful
technique for opening bottles that have tops that refuse to come off.
Over time, my bottles of patchouli and vetiver can become difficult to
open, especially if I've allowed any essential oil to drip onto the
grooves of where the cap screws onto the bottle. I place the bottle,
upside down, into a bowl of warm water and allow it to rest there for at
least 15 minutes. Of course, this technique can risk allowing water to
enter the bottle, but I haven't experienced that problem yet.
Marge
Clark is founder and President of Nature's Gift and is one of AromaWeb's
largest advertisers and supporters. Marge is an expert in working with
precious, rare and thick absolutes, CO2s and other aromatic oils. I
asked her for her input in compiling tips in working with solid/thick
oils, and she happily shared some especially helpful tidbits:
Heat
thick oils in warm water. Mentally imagine how baby bottles are gently
warmed. If you are planning to blend the oil with a carrier oil, be sure
to also warm the carrier oil. "Plunking a warm dollop of, let's say
Calendula Total into cold jojoba gives you jojoba with a blob of CO2 in
it."
Marge discovered that using a triple boiler heating
method rather than just using a double boiler helps, especially when
heating a tiny bottle. Marge recommends placing the small bottle in a
custard cup or tea cup with a small bit of warm water. Then set the
small cup into a larger container of hot water.
Even when
warmed, it's usually not possible or accurate to measure thick oils by
the drop. Marge and I both measure thick oils by weight using a scale
that weighs by the gram. Digital postal scales are one option if you
happen to have one that measures in grams, but I tend not to use that
type of scale for measuring tiny quantities. I prefer more accuracy, and
use a pocket digital scale that can measure in fractions of a gram (I
believe more formally referred to as centigrams and decigrams).
Amazon.com sells digital pocket scales, including the American Weigh
Precision Digital Pocket Scale that has good reviews and is priced at
$18.99 (at the time of this writing). [Sidenote: If this scale becomes
discontinued, you can search Amazon.com for other scales by using the
search term gram scales.] Whatever scale you choose, be sure it has a
tare function that lets you add an empty container and then set the
scale to zero to then only weight what you put into
the container.
Marge
mentions that when diluting thicker oils in large amounts, it is
sometimes better to add a tiny bit of the warmed carrier to the warmed
(but still semi-solid) oil, stir until blended, add another dollop and
repeat. She adds that her process is not much unlike making a sauce in
her kitchen. ;)
Almost every absolute will dilute better in
alcohol than in a carrier oil, and particular oils including some
beeswax and cocoa absolutes will never dilute in carrier oils.
Marge also uses a warming tray. A warming tray is generally used to keep foods warm at a buffet table.
It
happens to all of us that use thicker CO2s and absolutes: We have
dropped, dripped and/or scooped out as much of the oil as we can, but we
know there's still a tad more left in the bottle. Using Marge's
techniques above, you can add alcohol or carrier oil (depending on the
method of extraction) to the nearly empty bottle. and then enjoy using
those last few drops by way of the dilution that you just created.
If
you are in doubt or are having trouble working with a particular oil,
contact the company that you purchased the oil from. They are most
familiar with the particular oil that you purchased and should be quite
experienced at working with it.
A special thank you to Marge Clark, President of Nature's Gift for her significant contributions to this article.
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